There has never been a simple definition of Texas barbecue. Cooking methods, wood types, and seasonings vary across the state. And now things are getting even more complex.
Motivated by the competitive barbecue scene and inspired by the foods they eat out or at home, pitmasters are enlivening their menus with ingredients and cooking styles from all over the world. New spots in the Austin area are serving brisket banh mi, barbecue gumbo, and kimchi instead of pickles. A single joint in Houston does all those and more. Even in Waco you can find a bowl of brisket ramen. Moroccan-style carrots and Armenian coffee share the stage with Tex-Mex touches like pico de gallo sausage, barbacoa, and elotes. But don’t worry. The chopped-beef sandwich isn’t going anywhere.
This is the second time we’ve done a midterm barbecue report that focuses exclusively on new barbecue joints. We launched it in 2015 because the level of activity in the Texas barbecue scene had gotten so intense that it seemed wrong to make readers wait to hear about the worthy rookies until we released our next Top 50 list, which comes out every four years. (The next one is due in 2021.)
And things have only gotten more intense lately. When I compiled my last midterm report, I easily narrowed my picks down to 25. This year, though, it was harder because there was a lot more great new barbecue to evaluate. Some of it could be found at pop-up operations. But our rules require that a place have a permanent address and regular hours. And then there are the top-tier places that have spawned second locations, such as Austin’s Micklethwait Craft Meats, which launched a satellite in Smithville, and Brenham’s Truth Barbeque, which expanded to Houston. While these places are technically new, their parent operations got plenty of accolades in our last Top 50 list. This time around, there’s so much happening in Texas barbecue that there’s no reason to repeat ourselves.
LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue
Opened: 2017Pitmasters: Evan LeRoy, Brad Robinson, and Thomas Spaulding
Pro tip: Incredible smoked burgers are available after 5 p.m.
Loro
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Bram Tripp
Pro tip: The smoked beef brisket is served only at dinner.
Charlie’s Bar-B-Que
Opened: 2012Pitmaster: Charles Brewer
Pro tip: Visit on Saturdays for smoked oxtails.
Blood Bros. BBQ
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Quy Hoang
Pro tip: They hope to open for dinner soon and offer plenty of specials.
LJ’s BBQ
Opened: 2017Pitmasters: Matt Lowery and Corey Cook
Pro tip: Come here when the line at nearby Truth Barbeque is unbearable.
1775 Texas Pit BBQ
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: Brad Doan
Pro tip: When you think you’ve driven too far, just keep going a little ways down.
The Switch
Opened: 2018Pitmasters: Chris McGhee, Bill Dumas, Troy Warlick, and Marco Oglesby
Pro tip: Don’t miss the brisket Benedict for Sunday brunch.
Panther City BBQ
Opened: 2018Pitmasters: Chris Magallanes and Ernest Morales
Pro tip: Check their hours, as the transition from trailer to brick-and-mortar might affect their schedule.
John Mueller Black Box Barbecue
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: John Mueller
Pro tip: Ask Mueller nicely and he might let you inspect the smoker.
Pustka Family Barbeque
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: Dustin Pustka
Pro tip: A simple sausage wrap makes for a quick and inexpensive lunch.
Feges BBQ
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Patrick Feges
Pro tip: Try as many sides as you can during your visit.
Reveille Barbecue Co.
Opened: 2018Pitmasters: James McFarland, Michael Michna, and Wade Elkins
Pro tip: There’s even smoke in the salad, a variation on a Caesar that uses smoked egg yolks in the dressing.
Brick Vault Brewery & Barbecue
Opened: 2018Pitmasters: Nick Reese, Elliott Reese, and Phillip Moellering
Pro tip: Bring a designated driver or stay at the Gage Hotel (which owns Brick Vault), because there are six beers on tap.
Convenience West
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: Mark Scott
Pro tip: Carrot Dip Dip, a muhammara-like appetizer of fire-roasted carrots, isn’t barbecue, but it might change your life.
Butter’s BBQ
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: Andrew Soto
Pro tip: Barbacoa—beef cheeks smoked with oak and some mesquite—is available only on Saturdays and Sundays. Try it with their house-made salsa.
Rejino Barbeque
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: Aaron Rejino
Pro tip: Time your visit with the Thursday evening special of smoked fajitas.
Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue
Opened: 2017Pitmasters: John Brotherton, Dominic Colbert, Alanmykal Jackson, and Randy Estrada
Pro tip: If enough of you ask about Brotherton’s crawfish boudin, he might add it to the menu.
Smokin’ Moon BBQ & Beer Garden
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Joel Garcia
Pro tip: Indulge in the El Chili Sueño, a brisket, chili, and jalapeño sandwich.
Harlem Road Texas BBQ
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Ara Malekian
Pro tip: Ask Malekian for an Armenian coffee if you need a pick-me-up.
Brett’s Backyard Bar-B-Que
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Brett Boren
Pro tip: Ask for the fruity rib sauce of the day.
Smoke Sessions Barbecue
Opened: 2017Pitmaster: Chad Sessions
Pro tip: Garlic lovers should keep an eye out for the garlic Parmesan rib special.
Black Board Bar-B-Q
Opened: 2017Pitmasters: Jake Gandolfo and Jo Irizarry
Pro tip: Get a cookie to go and warm it on your dashboard. You’ll want it later.
Pitforks and Smokerings BBQ
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Isaac Arellano
Pro tip: Thursday nights are dedicated to barbecue tacos.
Guess Family Barbecue
Opened: 2017Pitmasters: Reid Guess, Cade Mercer, and Charles Deason
Pro tip: Try the brisket in a bowl of ramen, which comes from the Koko Ramen truck across town.
Helberg Barbecue
Opened: 2018Pitmaster: Phillip Helberg
Pro tip: Ask for pastrami beef cheeks, one of the most unusual barbecue items in Texas
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